Notes
1 The subtitle to this tutorial (Skirt, Huipil) is a translation of the sixteenth-century Nahuatl metaphor for woman: in cueitl in huipilli. See Montes de Oca Vega 1997, 35.
2 Durán 1967, vol. 2, 211-13; Sempere y Guarinos 1788, vol. 2, 1-94; Jones and Stallybrass 2000, 187-190.
3 Jones and Stallybrass 2000, 6; Asad 1993, 62-64.
4 López Austin 1988, vol. 1, 285-290.
5 Berdan and Anawalt 1992a, vol. 3, folios 58r-60r; Joyce 2000, 479-480; Hassig 1988, 31.
6 Sahagún 1969, 201-207 (chapters 38 and 39).
7 Joyce 2000, 476; McCafferty and McCafferty 1991; Berdan and Anawalt 1992a, vol. 3, folio 58r.
8 Anawalt 1992, 112-130; Hassig 1988, 31, 36.
9 Hvidtfeldt 1958; Lockhart 1992: 237-238.
10 Hvidtfeldt 1958, 97.
11 Quiñones-Keber 1995.
12 Klein 2001, 219-228.
13 For an overview of Central Mexican dress, see Anawalt 1992 and Anawalt 1981: 15-82.
14 Taube 1996, 50-54.
15 Persels 2007.
16 Joyce 2000, 480
17 Asselbergs 2008, 73.
18 McCafferty and McCafferty 1994; Klein 2001, 193. For a very different kind of military transvestism, from twentieth-century Liberia, see Moran 1997.
19 On Mesoamerican dreadlocks, see Motolinía 1951 [1538-1541]: 99, n. 3, and 120. For dreadlocks in comparative perspective, see Hebdige 1979, 34, 36, 43, 63, 66, 143 n. 4; and Obeyesekere 1981.
20 Otis Charlton 1993, 1994.
21 Berdan and Anawalt 1992b, 188.
22 Nicholson 1967; Kranz 2001: 213-214; Cosentino 2002, 191-193, 211-212.
23 Jeanne Gillespie argues that a topknot is associated with Cholula in the Lienzo and that a feather crown is associated with the Acolhua (Gillespie 2004, 69, 79, 85). However, like the “Otomi” headbands the use of these hairstyles and costume elements does not seem entirely consistent.
24 For an archaeological study of obsidian labrets as a sign of Otomi ethnic identity, see Brumfiel et al. 1994.
25 The Relación de Michoacan, a sixteenth-century document from the Tarascan region of western Mexico, includes several images of feather headdresses not unlike those worn in the western Mexico sections of the Lienzo. However, in the Relación those headdresses are not limited to red or orange feathers (Alcalá 2000, plates 41 and 42).
26 Anawalt 1981, 49, 217.
27 Anawalt 1994: 112-130.
28 Berdan and Anawalt 1994c.
29 Anawalt 1992: 122-124; Berdan and Anawalt 1994d.
30 For an overview of Central Mexican weapons, see Hassig 1988, 75-85.
31 Durán 1971, 114-116 (chapter 5).
32 Stenzel 1970.
33 For example, many pictorial documents from the sixteenth century reveal that indigenous nobles quickly began wearing European costumes, or began mixing European costume elements with those of prehispanic dress. For example, see the images of the Codex of Yanhuitlan in Jiménez Moreno y Mateos Higuera 1940, and Cosentino 2002, 234.
34 Muñoz Camargo 2000, 270; Díaz Serrano 2010, 99.
35 Persels 2007, 81-84.
36 Soler del Campo 2009.